That's about the best way...! V commonly done.
At the same time, consider adding a fascia board.
This can be anything, but a good wood is cedar. It resists
what this will be exposed to. I like to buy mine, pre-primed.
It may well mean cutting the existing eave ends back, the
thickness of the cedar/fascia... ~ 3/4". (Shingles need to
end up, still covering this new fascia... and maybe hanging
over 1/2" or so.)
When you add a sistered-eave/cripple:
Since this is an awkward area, you may have trouble
swinging a hammer. 1 or 2 eaves may be weak. So you
can screw them on. I like to use deck screws, but galvanized
is v adequate. 2 1/2 min, or 2 3/4 or 3".
Now, the ends need to all be the same, so the meet the
fascia, neatly. A cop saw by Ryobi is a cheap way to start
and get repeatable lines. BUT, this need not all show. IF it
shows, you'll want a purrrrdy line, on both ends of the sister.
BUT you can get dome and then cover all this, making a
soffet. Considered high-class.
IF you do, you will need to vent it, so the under eave vents
all breath. There are long ones, or round hole plugs. THIS
can be added next summer. You just need the fascia to be
(hang down) 1/2" longer, to cover it.
If you go any of these ways, there are tricks, so ask then.
BillSF9c
-------------- I need to do some repair work on the gutter supports attached to the ends of rafters on a 45 year old garage. The rafter ends are slowly rotting and the nails holding the gutter are coming out. Tom C I would suggest scabbing some cripples to the rafters, and, nailing the gutters to those. KrazyKyngeKorny (Krazy, not stupid)
| Reply via web post | Reply to sender | Reply to group | Start a New Topic | Messages in this topic (3) |
No comments:
Post a Comment